Desenvolvimento de máscara capilar contendo óleo fixo de patauá (Oenocarpus bataua) e manteiga de murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru) para reparação de cabelos pós-química

Abstract

The hair strand is exposed daily to harmful environmental and chemical effects. One of the oldest forms of medicinal practice is the use of plants for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes. Vegetable oils stand out in hair care due to their ability to coat and protect the hair. For this work, the fixed oil of Oenocarpus bataua and the butter from Astrocaryum murumuru were selected for their fatty acid composition and emollient and conditioning capacity. The objective of this work was to develop cosmetic formulations of hair mask type, containing pataua oil and murumuru butter to evaluate the repairing effect on damaged hair after chemical procedures through stability tests, analysis of the texture profile of the formulations in a texturometer, in addition to of the evaluation of the mechanical resistance of the locks of hair after application of the formulations and visualization in Scanning Electron Microscopy. Six emulsions were developed using the phase inversion method. All the developed formulations were stable, and no changes were observed in the organoleptic characteristics in the preliminary and accelerated stability tests, in addition, the pH values remained without significant changes. In the texture profile analysis, the increase in concentration (from 5 to 7 %) of BTMS 25 surfactant increased about 47,66 % on firmness, 51,33 % on consistency and 138 % on cohesion work of the formulations (p < 0.001). As the concentration of murumuru butter increased (from 5 to 10%), there was an increase of 36, 5 % on hardness, 38,5 % on consistency, and 72,5 % on cohesion work (p < 0.001). Based on the results obtained, the two best formulations were chosen for carrying out the chemical treatment of hair strands and for evaluating the mechanical properties of the hair. The group of treated locks containing 10 % pataua oil and 7 % BTMS 25 obtained better results, whose breaking strength was close to that of virgin hair, in addition to presenting more intact conditions in the images analyzed by Scanning Electron Microscopy